Chiltern Firehouse

I went to Chiltern Firehouse for brunch a few weekends ago. I have to say I was incredibly surprised at how easy it was to reserve a table. I called mid-week and voila! I had a table for two. I think that dinner may be harder to book.

When we arrived, the place was full - not uncomfortably packed, but there was a lovely buzz. People who walked in for a table, were offered drinks and a meal at the bar if they wished - however some were turned  away. I would definitely recommend booking. Despite our reservation, I still had to wait for close to half an hour at the bar for my table... A complimentary cocktail or apology would have been appreciated, but alas, was not offered.

I ordered a Bloody Mary while I waited  - it had been a long week! It was actually one of the best that I have drunk. It was not overwhelmingly garnished, as they sometimes can be. Instead the focus was on the spice mix and blend of flavours.

I ordered the crab donuts as a light snack. Miniature sweet donuts were sliced in half and filled with a light crab mix. I had expected the donut batter to have been modified to be savoury, but the sweet notes remained. The crab was fresh, generous and well seasoned. The donut was light and not greasy. Both elements of the dish were well executed -the natural sweetness of the crab paired well with the donut. However as a whole the dish didn’t work for me. The fishy and sweetness were still an odd combination. It was intriguing and not unpleasant, but I would not order them again. I preferred the Ox Cheek Donuts from duck and waffle – that combination of sweet and savoury was rich and worked really well.

I then had the eggs royale. A winner!

Buttery toasted brioche replaces the English muffins, making the dish all the more decadent and delicious. The hollandaise sauce had a nice tang and was not too thick. The smoked salmon was not too salty. The eggs were perfectly cooked – 5* meal. It is a classic combination and everything was executed well.

Apple granite with a frozen panna cotta was a textural delight and flavour sensation. It was similar to a baked Alaska, as the panna cotta was enrobed in a light meringue. It was incredibly well balanced and refreshing. The tart apple complemented the sweet meringue. Neither words nor the picture below do this dish any justice.

Overall it was a nice meal in a great setting. The food is well cooked, but I didn’t think that it was particularly imaginative or special (excluding pudding), when I compare it to similarly priced restaurants – such as Pollen Street Social. I would go again if my friends wanted to try it out, but wouldn’t suggest it myself. I did get food envy over someone who ordered the steak tartare, which looked divine. If I return, I would certainly order it. 

Come for the environment (chique and refined – I forgot to look for celebrities) rather than for a culinary crusade. Otherwise you may be disappointed.

Rating 7/10

Chiltern Firehouse - http://www.chilternfirehouse.com/ - 020 7073 7676

1 Chiltern Street, Marylebone, London, W1U 7PA